Converting you RV’s electrical system from 30A to 50A will give you significantly more power in your RV. The first thing you might benefit from is being able to use both of your air conditioning units at the same time. For those who rely heavily on electrical power for example with an oxygen machine or any medical appliances that are constantly turned on, there is little remaining power available for regular power consumption on a 30A system. Or for those who live in hotter climates like me and need the second air conditioning unit on at times, a 50 amp system if necessary.
Converting from a 30A system to a 50A system doesn’t just give you 20 extra amps. The 30A system is a single phase, the 50A system is a dual phase. It basically means you get two extra legs of 50A of power. Therefore you’re really getting 70A extra in power. Also note the difference in volts. A single 30A system provides 120V. A dual phase 50A system provides two legs of 120V totalling 240V. When you write out the math according to the basic equation for power, A * V = W (power), you really see the difference in the two systems.
30A * 120V = 3600W of power
vs
50A * 240V = 12,000W of power
You can see the 50A system provides almost three and a half times more power to the RV.
Electrical Diagrams
If you’re watching the videos I did on how to convert your RV’s electrical system from 30A to 50A you’ll want to download these diagrams for reference:
Shopping List
30A – 50A Electrical System Conversion
(Includes Items that may already be installed):
- 3000W Inverter or equivalent
- Progressive Dynamics PD52 Automatic Transfer Switch or equivalent
- Progressive Dynamics AC Distribution Panel or equivalent
- Progressive Dynamics DC Distribution Panel or equivalent
- Plywood board to mount new breakers and control center to
- 30A generator breaker
- 50A male plug for the pedestal end of the new shore cord
- 50A female plug for the inlet end of the new shore cord
- 2 1/8 Deep Junction Box to hold your new 50A receptacle
- Mud Ring to mount on your J box that your 50A receptacle can screw into
- 50A Receptacle
- 50A Square Cover
- Nuts and Bolts to firmly attach 50A Rreceptacle to Mud Ring
- Zip Ties to bundle your wires together when running through bins or small spaces
- 3/16 in. Screws to mount Progressive Dynamics Auto Transfer Switch
- Washers to use when mounting the transfer switch
- 1x Two-Pole 50A Breaker
- 2x Two-Pole 30A Breaker
- 4x 15-20 Duplex Breakers
- X feet of 6/3 NM w/g Cable to run from your transfer switch to you distribution panel and from your receptacle to you transfer switch (The length depends on your set up)
- X feet of 10/3 NM Cable to run 2x cables from your inverter to the distribution panel (The length depends on your set up)
- 5x 1 in. Clamp Connectors (3 for the transfer switch, 1 for the 50A receptacle and 1 for the PD52 Power Control Center
- 1x 1 1/4 in. Clamp Connector (For in the PD 52 Power Control Center
In my video I set the outdoor inlet plug up for a male-male shore cord. This is very dangerous if the cord is plugged into the pedestal before being plugged into the RV. For a safer set up, instead of having a shore cord with two male heads, make it a male-female cord and have the cord plug into a male receptacle or just hard wire the cord into the RV so that it can not be unplugged from the RV.
How To Convert 30A to 50A Videos
Nice work! The only thing I would suggest is that you should not put two male plugs on your shore cord, as the one on the coach side could inadvertently electrocute someone if it was unplugged with the other end still connected to the shore pedestal. Instead, put a female plug on the coach side of the shore cord and replace the female receptacle you added on the coach with a male plug at the end of a short 6/4 jumper cable. Then you won’t have exposed potentially hot lugs to worry about.
Ditto, Excellant suggestion! I will add you did a marvelous job of making the conversion understandable. 5+ Stars
Thanks Michael!
Hi Pippy:
I really enjoy your YouTube videos – I’m impressed at how handy you are and the high quality of your videos. I just watched your 30 to 50 amp conversion videos and I need to tell you that the shore power cord you made is actually called a “suicide cord” and is both highly dangerous and illegal. An extension cord CAN NOT have 2 male plug ends to meet electrical code – if the male plug connected to your RV accidentally became disconnected with the other end connected to a power outlet you would have live unprotected terminals which could cause a fire, electric shock or death – you need to change the plug at your RV junction box from a female end to a male end.
Regards
Gene
First I salute you for taking on this project but I must agree with TheOregonOutlaw, Please STOP and rebuild your shore power cable so that it has a MALE and a FEMALE connector. The way you built it in the video is EXTREMELY dangerous. The Female connector should attach to a MALE plug on the RV. With two male connectors on the show power cable you stand the chance of having 220V 50A exposed on one end if the other is plugged into the power pole at the RV park.
I rebuilt my power in my Coachman RV last year and I was not able to find a male connector that mounts in a box so I made my own. If you don’t think you have the skills to build your own similar box then simply use the MALE connector on a cable that goes to your changeover switch and let it hang in the bay. Then get a FEMALE end from the RV store and install it on the shore power cable.
I have been a broadcaster for over 40 years and was an engineer on a number of TV mobile units and dealt with 208V 100A three phase power often. Never have I seen something so very dangerous as the way you built you input power.
Thank you for all of your video but PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE rebuild that cable and power input. If I didn’t live on the other side of the country I would be happy to help you do it correctly.
Dave Peters
Project Manager, NBC Olympics
dave-peters@comcast.net
Thanks Dave 🙂
I am glad everything went well. The thought of losing you to an electrical accident is just unbearable. I still wanna see through my bucket list and marry you someday.
Pippi,
Came across your posting while searching YouTube for videos of the Alaskan Camper product line. Was so intrigued with your video that I looked up your blog…a delightful breath of springtime fresh air! You’re a dynamo. You really should display an FDA addictive substance warning label on your postings.
Haha, thanks, glad to have you! 😀 Happy trails!
In sharing your interests, experiences, and thoughts via your videos, forum, and blog you’re giving all of us in the RV community a great gift! Happy trails back to you!…and many thanks! Bill
Thanks so much, Bill! 😀
Pippi,
I watch all your postings and I’m always impressed by your enthusiasm and thoroughness and your inner strength (being pretty doesn’t hurt either). I just finished your 4 part series on upgrading from 30A to a 50A service which was very informative and well done. Having had boats with similar set-ups, I must say that I was shocked that you were advised to use a 50A service cord with a male plug on both ends. This is truly a deadly set-up and would never be approved by any electrical regulations. Although you would be aware to unplug the service end first (you can always count on Murphys Law) kicking in when dangerous circumstances exists (if it can happen, it will happen). Just think if you sell your coach in the future, you would be liable for having creating an unsafe situation (50A raw power is instant death). Also consider the weight of the 6 ga. Cord as exists would always exert a downward pressure on the plug on the coach which could become unplugged and start a fire or worse when you would step out of your coach (you would become the ground).
On boats we would use a 4 prong 50A recessed twist lock male plug attached to the boat and a 4 prone 50A female twist lock plug on the coach end of the shore power cord. This set-up would never expose live terminals and would never work itself loose.
You did a fantastic job overall but I implore you to address this deadly situation whereas I enjoy your postings and would never want anything bad to happen to you.
PS; kick whoever advised you on the double ended male plugs.
Regards,
Dave L
I’ve got to get this fixed. plenty of other people advised me on this. Thanks for the info.
Where do I buy all this stuff you listed. No doubt I’ll hire an electrician
Hello Pippi. I’m so new at rving going on only about a year with a class a motor home, and just recently stumbled on to your youtube channels and blog. I just want to say how great it is that you take the time to post such very informative video’s on many different topics. I’m sure I will be checking out many of your other video’s etc. again thank you for what you do to help out other rvers. Mike.
Why did you not us this panel A split 50/50 panel accepts — LEFT SIDE: dual 50 Amp main and up to 8 branch circuits — RIGHT SIDE: dual 50 Amp main and up to 4 branch circuits.
Good question, the right side is for non-inverted items and I left room for additions for example an on-demand water heater… The left side is all inverted circuits.
Why did you use the 50/30 split over the following A split 50/50 panel accepts — LEFT SIDE: dual 50 Amp main and up to 8 branch circuits — RIGHT SIDE: dual 50 Amp main and up to 4 branch circuits.
The set up is 50A dual phase, 50/50.
Looks like it has been a year since you converted it. How is it working for you now? I am considering this on our 97 bounder as we can only run one AC at a time and not use the microwave. Is there anything you would do different?
I love being able to run both ACs! You may want to have a professional help you. I thought my electrician neighbor was professional but he had me do a bit of a redneck fix on my power cord. But otherwise, I love that I did it!
Hi Pippi! First time posting a question on your blog. I’ll keep it short and simple. I am going to upgrade the battery bank on my RV (1994 Chevy Bounder, almost identical as yours except the bedroom/bathroom setup) and plan to set it up in the same compartment you did, reinforcing the battery weight in a similar fashion as you did (thanks for the “Reinforcing Battery Weight” video).
I noticed on your videos that you do not appear to carry a spare tire! My own spare tire is more than ten years old and am not even sure I would use it if I get a flat tire. My question is this: do many RV owners do away with their spare tire? I am considering it but am also aware that the moment I do, I’ll probably have a flat tire.
Thanks,
H
Hi Hector, I have a spare tire in one of my back bins and definitely carry. I know people who do not carry it. I think it is foolish. Yes, there is roadside assistance but they may need to order your tire. Why not have the certainty and just carry it and let roadside assistance change it for you?
As for the age, you could get a new tire put on or use the older one if needed and change soon after that to a newer tire. Or replace the blown tire and replace that onto the axle and put the spare back into you cargo.
Best of luck!
Great series. Now I am looking at upgrading my service. On that note, I saw you have a 3K inverter. Was this a requirement for your RV or is this a requirement for the 50A service? Essentially, would like to avoid the exorbitant cost if not needed. Keep up the great stuff.
It’s not a requirement at all. It only depends on the size of system you would like to have.
What configuration of thePD5500 did you order
PD55B000 or PD55B006 and why.
Thanks and good job
I’m glad to see that you used the heavy 3/0 gauge cable from your batteries to your inverter. I have met a number of people who think of inverters as “plug and play” and “I’m only going to run a few small things off mine”. Back to AmpsXVolts = Watts; if you’re going to put out 3000W at 120V from the inverter, you must move 3000 watts from the batteries at 12V — and how many Amps is that? It’s 250Amps on the cable from the battery to the inverter! Most houses aren’t set up for 250 Amps (of course, a house is set up for 120V service but that’s still a lot of amps). You *must* have a large-gauge cable and that’s exactly what you have and what you demonstrated.
Good work! It’s a well-thought out conversion and you showed it and explained it well. I’m sure that this video is going to help many people — it’s great inspiration.
(And thanks for fixing the shore cord thing.)
Bb
Hi Pippi, about how much did this conversion cost you and how long did it take to complete it?
Thx!
You should be able to price everything out. I got the cabling for free. That’s a big cost to not forget in the pricing out. It took a couple days working with my neighbor who is an electrician.
Girl you make me feel empowered! I wish I could do this. I am such a whimp. And, terrified of messing with electricity. Pretty cool to see the process though. Thanks for sharing!
Can I ask why you went with such a large inverter?
Hi Pippi,
Good job. Hopefully you’re still monitoring the comment section as I have a question.
You brought in two 120 legs of 50 amps each. You hooked both legs up to the same 50A breaker? How does that breaker seperate the legs? Are there two positive bus bars in the panel? One for side one (say the side with the black wire in) and one for the red side? Or was that done with wire from the breaker to “phase two” side? Somewhere you had to seperate the two legs or you get 240v. Hope that question is clear. thanks. Buzz
Hi Pippi,
Good job. I have a question though. Your system is a 50A/50A split system. You brought in 2 legs of 120/50A from the pole. You hooked black up to one side of the 50A breaker, and red up to the other side of the 50A breaker. How does the power get to the other side of the panel? Does the 50A two pole breaker connect to 2 different positive bus bars (with 1 running over to the other side of the panel) or did you have to run wire from the breaker to the other side of the panel? Also, could you clarify the inverter hook up. Mine has AC in and AC out. Your diagram show shows pole 1 to AC1 and pole 2 to AC2? thanks
Reviving an old topic.. but do you know the exact model number of AC distribution panel you used? I know they make different configurations. Any additional info appreciated. Thanks and great job!
Hi Pippi,
Saw your you tube vid of this and found this blog. Congrats on pulling it off.
I notice quite a few comments about the 50/50 panel and there seems to be some confusion about that vis-a-vis a 50/30 split panel. The confusion comes from your wiring diagram. What some fail to realize, and correct me if I’m wrong, but I think the 50/50 comes from the fact that the panel uses 2 phase bus bars: meaning the hot and neutral bus bars are split in two, one for each phase. The Dual Main 50 amp breaker feeds each hot bus, and the 30 amp breakers on the right half are for inverter sub panel. Each breaker space is from alternating hot phase bus bars, so that each dual breaker gives you two branch breakers on the corresponding phase. For example, in your wiring diagram, the first pair of breakers (to the right of the dual 50A Main) are both on phase 1. the next pair are on phase 2 etc. I did a fair amount of head scratching and attempted to ask for clarification myself, but I had trouble navigating your registration process. Apparently, I finally got that figured out. Hope this clears it up for others. Again, if I’m wrong, please clarify the details of you panel.
Regards
Regards
It is wired the same as your house panel. You have one phase, you are getting a feed from a 240V center tapped transformer, the neutral wire goes to the center tap, each “hot” leg of the transformer has 120V on it. If you measure from one hot leg to the other hot leg…you get your 240V. Most 240V appliances have a 4 wire cord (two hots, neutral, safety ground) because the control electronics, motors, etc., typically run on 120V and so you have to have the return path back to the center tap of the transformer.
At about 1:25 in this video, you can see a schematic of a typical home power distribution system. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOh2OSJ44eE
Just forget the part about the wiring coming from the inverter and it should make more sense.